First
Black Tie Dinner. 1
March. Providence celebrated its first black tie dinner, offering
the following menu: Entree: hot smoked salmon with avocado and vine
tomato parsley dressing and lemon mousseline cream. Soup: Lobster
broth with saffron. Main: Minute venison medallions with mushroom-cognac
sauce, creamed potato, carrot fondue and fine beans. This was followed
by a range of Tasmanian Cheeses, which included Pyengana, Mersey Valley
and Ashgrove product. Dessert: Chocolate tart with raspberry
surprise. The wines? In order: Moet Chandon non vintage
on arrival; Wellington 2005 Riesling with the entree; 1994 Providence Chardonnay
with the soup; Chateau Palmer 1978 and 1980 Premier Grand Crus Margaux
and Saltram 1972 Museum Reserve Claret with the main and following on with
the cheeses and two notable stickies with dessert: Rossetto 1994 Botrytis
and Ashwood 1996 botrytis Riesling. Our chef was Xavier Mouche who
also put the menu together. The unanimous view of the diners was
"Fantastic!" Don't ask the price - current release Chateau Palmer
is over 130 Euros per bottle at cellar door! Xavier's culinary skills
are priceless.
"Wings
like a 747!" Exclaimed our winemaker, Guy Wagner. Guy
was speaking of the subsidiary bunches that form from the main bunch
stem of Pinot Noir, often referred to 'wings' or shoulders. These
grapes will always remain behind the primary bunch in ripening and at vintage,
even though they will be the right colour, will not achieve full ripeness
and therefore will not contribute positively to the finished wine.
They have to be removed. That means that viticulture at Providence
as far as Pinot Noir is concerned is now at the bunch level. Manual
and demanding, but not as demanding as vintage at Chateau D'Yqeum in Sauternes
where they get down not only to bunch level but berry level! That's
why their wine sells for $400-plus a bottle at release. This is what
we are doing at Providence now - thinning Pinot Noir. (8
March).
13 March, Vintage - Chardonnay. The contract picking team arrived at 7:30 am and took 5 tonnes of Chardonnay for processing as sparkling wine. Not Providence unfortunately, as the fruit was absolutely fantastic. No, another very good Tasmanian brand! We would like to make sparkling but we cannot manage the increased cost associated with sparkling wine production. Its about double the processing cost and double the maturation time, making the time to profit unacceptable. There are plenty of good Tasmanian sparkles and we sell some of them here!
16 April. Good onyer, Sis! Well, not really. Quentin Bryce is not my sister, but we are probably related somewhere back in Scotland. If we are I doubt she would want to recognise all our rellies. I am a direct descendent of Rob Roy McGregor who, contrary to the movie, was in fact a sheep stealer and not a cattle rustler. But Scottish Highland cattle are far more photogenic than sheep. Speaking of n'ere do wells, we also have a black marketeer and a member of the Liverpool mafia in the family as well (long deceased). I still have an ex RAF Remington typewriter that Uncle Freddie stole for my father during WWII. Most of the rest were pit workers in West Lothian. Oh, on the other hand there is also John Bunyan (Pilgrims Progress) on my mother's side just to help balance the books! Nevertheless, Providence wishes Ms Bryce all the best as she prepares herself for her new role as Governor-General of Australia. In my past life I was a VIP captain flying Sir John Kerr and Sir Zelman Cowam whilst they held that lofty office.
We wondered where our environment award was when I read about Toyota getting one for recycling all their roof water. Well, that's what we have just done as part of our drought-proofing programme. I should have measured the area of the roof before finalising the plan as we collect much faster than I thought. 10 mm of rain gives us 4,500 litres of lovely water. Working on our annual average (if that keeps up) we stand to collect 324,000 litres annually and that doesn't include the sheds. As our daily usage (household, guests use and glass washer) is about 200 litres/day and spray water is 5,600 litres pa, it looks like a lot of it will be drained straight into Pollock's Creek which runs through the vineyard. But, on the other hand, if Oz does start to dry out we have about four years of drinking water up our sleeve!
Vintage has turned a bit nasty. Having got the Chardonnay off in perfect condition (for sparkling) the silvereyes found the Pinot and have been giving it a right royal pasting. Notwithstanding that we have carefully netted all the vines, the little suckers have been crawling on the ground underneath the nets, despite the ornithologists insisting that silvereyes are arboreal (don't touch the ground). Vintage will be on Sunday 20th April and I have no doubt that we will have lost about 40% of our fruit to their voracious appetites. Of course what follows are the European wasps! Having cleaned up all the nests on our property we have observed them crossing the road in swarms to hull out the fruit damaged by the silvereyes. Now that's not such a bad thing as it will ensure that we don't get too much volatile acidity in the finished wine. Finished wine? Well, perhaps not good enough for a straight Pinot Noir, but more than good enough for a great Pinot Rose - our first!
28 June. Well, a bit of a change from vineyard work! With my daughter, Emma, I walked the Kokoda Trail, following the path of the 39th Militia Battalion in their retreat from Kokoda, fighting every inch of the way a force six times their strength and better trained. Why the mullahs of the day chose the militia, rather than properly trained regular AIF soldiers to complete this task is beyond me. Nevertheless, the 39th was crowned in glory through their courage, endurance, mateship and sacrifice. These words are recorded for all time on the monument at Isurava and in the words of an observer when they were relieved at Menari: "Those ragged bloody heroes". Apart from the obvious - spending a fortnight with Emma, who left home 18 years ago, the experience was indeed life-changing,, embracing history, culture, emotion and a big physical challenge for this 63 year old grape farmer. Anyone contemplating this venture should consider a six-month training program, unless you are an accomplished athlete already. I have a list of things that are a must to take.
12 July. Brenda and I headed off for a well-earned holiday, travelling first to Adelaide to visit her family in and near Victor Harbor (their spelling, not mine!). Then we travelled on the Ghan to Darwin, stopping at Alice Springs and Katherine. It was a great trip and, despite having our own Mrs Marples on board (Brenda in a Lilydale Players production), no-one was murdered. It was Brenda's first trip to those destinations and the time in Alice and Katherine allowed for some serious snooping around. The highlight would have been the magnificent boat trip up the Katherine Gorge. After darwin we flew down to Broome and stayed three nights at Cable Beach. Broome was a fantastic experience, redolent with history and vista. Definitely a place to go!
15 August. Well, after some five months in the planning and execution, and $6,000 overrun, our new net shed/workshop is finished. The old net shed, which embraced a pig sty, goat house, net storage and a lot of wasted space was in the state of early collapse. Our backhoe specialist, Tony, had great fun demolishing it and making it all disappear. Council approval took some time as we had to modify the original plans to include a retaining wall, as the volume of fill exceeded the 500 mm limit. This shed will be called "secret men's business" to match Brenda's "secret woman's business" shed where no man dares to tread!
New Goat! We now have a second goat, Fred (who was male - past tense). Fred is a noisy but delightful little saanen who was given to us by a neighbour. He and Gary are getting on well and the blackberry progress has increased significantly.
27 August. Winter management is complete. With the help of Brenda and Elizabeth the vineyard has been tied down and the mulching finished today. Over Winter I fertilized using dynamic lifter (chook poo) for the first time in over seven years. A lack of nitrogen last season was evident in the pruning weights and I figured that a boost, plus pruning for a lighter crop, would do the vineyard a lot of good.
Cellar
Door Re-opens 1 September!