First
Black Tie Dinner. 1
March.
Providence celebrated its first black tie dinner, offering the following
menu: Entree: hot smoked salmon with avocado and vine tomato parsley
dressing and lemon mousseline cream. Soup: Lobster broth with
saffron. Main: Minute venison medallions with mushroom-cognac
sauce, creamed potato, carrot fondue and fine beans. This was followed
by a range of Tasmanian Cheeses, which included Pyengana, Mersey Valley
and Ashgrove product. Dessert: Chocolate tart with raspberry
surprise. The wines? In order: Moet Chandon non vintage
on arrival; Wellington 2005 Riesling with the entree; 1994 Providence Chardonnay
with the soup; Chateau Palmer 1978 and 1980 Premier Grand Crus Margaux
and Saltram 1972 Museum Reserve Claret with the main and following on with
the cheeses and two notable stickies with dessert: Rossetto 1994 Botrytis
and Ashwood 1996 botrytis Riesling. Our chef was Xavier Mouche who
also put the menu together. The unanimous view of the diners was
"Fantastic!" Don't ask the price - current release Chateau Palmer
is over 130 Euros per bottle at cellar door! Xavier's culinary skills
are priceless.
"Wings
like a 747!"
Exclaimed our winemaker, Guy Wagner. Guy was speaking of the
subsidiary bunches that form from the main bunch stem of Pinot Noir, often
referred to 'wings' or shoulders. These grapes will always remain
behind the primary bunch in ripening and at vintage, even though they will
be the right colour, will not achieve full ripeness and therefore will
not contribute positively to the finished wine. They have to be removed.
That means that viticulture at Providence as far as Pinot Noir is concerned
is now at the bunch level. Manual and demanding, but not as demanding
as vintage at Chateau D'Yqeum in Sauternes where they get down not only
to bunch level but berry level! That's why their wine sells for $400-plus
a bottle at release. This is what we are doing at Providence now
- thinning Pinot Noir. (8
March).
13
March,
Vintage - Chardonnay. The contract picking team arrived at 7:30 am
and took 5 tonnes of Chardonnay for processing as sparkling wine.
Not Providence unfortunately, as the fruit was absolutely fantastic.
No, another very good Tasmanian brand! We would like to make sparkling
but we cannot manage the increased cost associated with sparkling wine
production. Its about double the processing cost and double the maturation
time, making the time to profit unacceptable. There are plenty of
good Tasmanian sparkles and we sell some of them here!
16
April.
Good onyer, Sis! Well, not really. Quentin Bryce
is not my sister, but we are probably related somewhere back in Scotland.
If we are I doubt she would want to recognise all our rellies. I
am a direct descendent of Rob Roy McGregor who, contrary to the movie,
was in fact a sheep stealer and not a cattle rustler. But Scottish
Highland cattle are far more photogenic than sheep. Speaking of n'ere
do wells, we also have a black marketier and a member of the Liverpool
mafia in the family as well (long deceased). I still have an ex RAF
Remington typewriter that Uncle Freddie stole for my father during WWII.
Most of the rest were pit workers in West Lothian. Oh, on the other
hand there is also John Bunyan (Pilgrims Progress) on my mother's side
just to help balance the books! Nevertheless, Providence wishes Ms
Bryce all the best as she prepares herself for her new role as Governor-General
of Australia. In my past life I was a VIP captain flying Sir John
Kerr and Sir Zelman Cowan whilst they held that lofty office.
We
wondered where our environment award
was when I read about Toyota getting one for recycling all their roof water.
Well, that's what we have just done as part of our drought-proofing programme.
I should have measured the area of the roof before finalising the plan
as we collect much faster than I thought. 10 mm of rain gives us
4,500 litres of lovely water. Working on our annual average (if that
keeps up) we stand to collect 324,000 litres annually and that doesn't
include the sheds. As our daily usage (household, guests use and
glass washer) is about 200 litres/day and spray water is 5,600 litres pa,
it looks like a lot of it will be drained straight into Pollock's Creek
which runs through the vineyard. But, on the other hand, if Oz does
start to dry out we have about four years of drinking water up our sleeve!
Vintage
has turned a bit nasty.
Having got the Chardonnay off in perfect condition (for sparkling) the
silvereyes found the Pinot and have been giving it a right royal pasting.
Notwithstanding that we have carefully netted all the vines, the little
suckers have been crawling on the ground underneath the nets, despite the
ornithologists insisting that silvereyes are arboreal (don't touch the
ground). Vintage will be on Sunday 20th April and I have no doubt
that we will have lost about 40% of our fruit to their voracious appetites.
Of course what follows are the European wasps! Having cleaned up
all the nests on our property we have observed them crossing the road in
swarms to hull out the fruit damaged by the silvereyes. Now that's
not such a bad thing as it will ensure that we don't get too much volatile
acidity in the finished wine. Finished wine? Well, perhaps
not good enough for a straight Pinot Noir, but more than good enough for
a great Pinot Rose - our first!
28
June.
Well, a bit of a change from vineyard work! With my daughter, Emma,
I walked the Kokoda Trail, following the path of the 39th Militia Battalion
in their retreat from Kokoda, fighting every inch of the way a force six
times their strength and better trained. Why the mullahs of the day
chose the militia, rather than properly trained regular AIF soldiers to
complete this task is beyond me. Nevertheless, the 39th was crowned
in glory through their courage, endurance, mateship and sacrifice.
These words are recorded for all time on the monument at Isurava and in
the words of an observer when they were relieved at Menari:
"Those ragged bloody heroes". Apart from the obvious - spending a
fortnight with Emma, who left home 18 years ago, the experience was indeed
life-changing,, embracing history, culture, emotion and a big physical
challenge for this 63 year old grape farmer. Anyone contemplating
this venture should consider a six-month training program, unless you are
an accomplished athlete already. I have a list of things that are
a must to take.
12
July.
Brenda and I headed off for a well-earned holiday, travelling first to
Adelaide to visit her family in and near Victor Harbor (their spelling,
not mine!). Then we travelled on the Ghan to Darwin, stopping at
Alice Springs and Katherine. It was a great trip and, despite having
our own Mrs Marples on board (Brenda in a Lilydale Players production),
no-one was murdered. It was Brenda's first trip to those destinations
and the time in Alice and Katherine allowed for some serious snooping around.
The highlight would have been the magnificent boat trip up the Katherine
Gorge. After darwin we flew down to Broome and stayed three nights
at Cable Beach. Broome was a fantastic experience, redolent with
history and vista. Definitely a place to go!
15
August.
Well, after some five months in the planning and execution, and $6,000
overrun, our new net shed/workshop is finished. The old net shed,
which embraced a pig sty, goat house, net storage and a lot of wasted space
was in the state of early collapse. Our backhoe specialist, Tony,
had great fun demolishing it and making it all disappear. Council
approval took some time as we had to modify the original plans to include
a retaining wall, as the volume of fill exceeded the 500 mm limit.
This shed will be called "secret men's business" to match Brenda's "secret
woman's business" shed where no man dares to tread!
New
Goat!
We now have a second goat, Fred (who was male - past tense). Fred
is a noisy but delightful little saanen who was given to us by a neighbour.
He and Gary are getting on well and the blackberry progress has increased
significantly.
27
August.Winter
management is complete.
With the help of Brenda and Elizabeth the vineyard has been tied down and
the mulching finished today. Over Winter I fertilized using dynamic
lifter (chook poo) for the first time in over seven years. A lack
of nitrogen last season was evident in the pruning weights and I figured
that a boost, plus pruning for a lighter crop, would do the vineyard a
lot of good.
Cellar
Door Re-opened 1 September!
6 September 2009.
RAIN, RAIN and more RAIN!!. The next old feller who chats to me in
the main street of Lilydale and says: nice drop of rain! I'll drop
him. Yes, a whole year has passed without me making any reports and
for that I apologise. The 2009 season was difficult, but aren't they
all? Vintage was very light in terms of quantity but the quality
factor was definitely there. We estimated that we were 50% down on
yield, but what lovely fruit! Guy Wagner was very pleased with all
three varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling. Without
being too presumptuous I think I can say that the 2009 Pinot will be a
"Miguet".
Global Warming etc.
Call me a member of the flat earth society but the only climatic variation
I can detect over the past three years is a small shift in the season:
We are getting budburst earlier and we are picking earlier. This
Winter, we were told by the experts that it would be drier than usual.
That turned out to be a load of crap. Providence recorded its wettest
Winter ever with 444.8 mm rain over the three months and twice the rainfall
in August ever recorded by us. Fortunately, we were able to start
pruning early and vineyard management, pruning, tying down and mulching
is completed, although the latter has made a bit of a mess in the lower
lying areas. Our big shed has been flooded five times in the past
three weeks. No damage, other than the time it has taken to clean
it out. The new drains have not been able to cope and further drainage
works are being done. Probably will never happen again!
New goat, Fred
has been with us a year now and has been 'socialised'. Both Fred
and Gary now have new goat houses and, considering the recent rains they
probably would have dissolved. Gary, who we now think is a Himalayan
goat, doesn't spend too much time in his house and would prefer, as he
always has, to stay outside and get soaked. His heavy winter coat
with underlying cashmere type wool, keeps him warm and dry at the skin
level. They were recently inspected by an inspector from the RSPCA,
who found them in excellent condition. How surprising: they
are treated more like humans, get goat bics every second day, liquorice
every day and have their own goat licks.
Getting on to
wine, because we committed the entire vintage of 2008 Pinot Noir to Rose,
(and what a lovely wine that is!) we needed a Pinot. I approached
Guy Wagner for help and we managed to purchase three lots of fruit from
two Tamar Valley Vineyards and one near the Asbestos Ranges, just west
of the Tamar (it now has a Aboriginal name; however, there are so many
syllables I can't remember it). Taking many samples, Guy Joined us
at the Gorge Restaurant where we played with various blends of the three
finished wines. And we came up with a winner! Or at least James Halliday
thought we did, awarding it 94 points in his 2010 Wine Guide (he also awarded
gold standard for our 2008 Rose and Riesling, the latter being sold
out). We called the Pinot "Black". Simple really, when it was
ready to be bottled, Guy phoned me and asked what coloured capsules
I wanted as he only had black. Bit like Henry Ford - "you can have
any colour car you want, as long as its black!" The wine, coming
from small berries is quite dark, and in an antique green bottle with a
black capsule it looks black. And so it came to be.
The Rose has
had good reviews, Particularly interesting was the comment from Roy
Morfield, the wine buyer for Cathay Pacific, who suggested that we keep
a few bins back as the wine was going to age well. Speaking of ageing,
the 04 CRV Pinot sales are picking up. This wine, so slow in developing,
is beginning to hit its straps. Unfortunately, the 2006 Miguet Pinot
Noir is just about sold out - and has yet to hit its straps. The
worst part about that is most of the sales are to restaurants where it
is being drunk now. What a shame. I would love to have been
able to hold that back, but the goats would have starved had I done that,
not to mention Brenda and me!
Speaking of starving.
Providence has its own vegie garden - the mother of all vegie gardens.
We have used raised beds, constructed by galvanised tank makers: two high
and two low, the latter for taller crops like beans, sweet corn and tomatoes.
The garden is completely enclosed in fine wire to exclude wombats, wallabies,
possums and bunyips. For us oldies, we will be able to manage it
without buggering our backs. Our answer to the GFC, and ageing!
As I write, it
is pouring rain (how surprising). At last I will be able to see the
effectiveness of the drainage work I completed yesterday (stage 1).
Since last writing,
the immediate family has grown by two: Brenda's son Ben and Mel had
a little girl, Ava and her daughter Jayne and Steve have had a second girl,
Cassidy. My lot? still complying with their father's remonstrations
when their were little. My angry retort in response to their bad
behaviour was "you should not be bred from!" are being complied with.
Emma and her partner Damian are buying property in Southbank and are frantically
saving. Lisa and Mike, Married last December here on the vineyard,
are still in Kalgoorlie. Their family has grown, with two dogs joining
Basil the cat on the pet list. All is rosy in those two camps.
The lead-up to
the 2010 vintage was not too bad.We
had rain, quite a lot but well spaced, which relieved the need for irrigation.January,
however, was bone dry and this is where we got caught, with enclaves of
powdery mildew affecting stems and bunches but not the leaves.The
heat in January also caught us on the hop as we suffered some leaf burning
because we were using our normal rates of sulphur and not the mainland
rates, which are about half that we use in Tasmania.
Vintage was early,
but not as early as the previous four years.Our
observations were that the climatic shift, upon which I have previously
commented, seemed to move back closer to normal.Our
biggest problem was beyond our control.Voracious
European wasps, in numbers never before seen caused considerable damage,
even to blocks in which we managed to exclude all bird life.My
colleagues in Relbia have long been telling me that wasps are able to broach
grapes.Despite watching the little
suckers for years I have never seen that happen, until this year.Many
vineyards suffered reduced yields due to wasp damage and I feel that an
approach for government support may well be answered.There
are certainly more wasps in Tasmania than foxes!
For the tenth
year in a row, the staff, parents and students of the Launceston Church
Grammar School brought in our vintage.This
has been a fantastic arrangement and a mutually beneficial one at that.On 8
April we
picked 2.6 tonnes of Chardonnay and on Sunday 18
April we
picked a measly 1.5 tonnes of Pinot, the rest having been consumed by the
wasps.What we did get was magnificent.The
winemaker, Guy Wagner praised the fruit, as he did the small parcel of
Riesling we picked on the same day.
Today, 3
May 2010,
I celebrate my 65th birthday.Just
to clear up any misconceptions, that is 65 years young, not old!Anyone
checking my facebook will notice that I am still well entrenched in my
first childhood.Speaking of children,
I have taken the reins of Life Education Tasmania Inc.a
national organisation dedicated to empowering children to make reasoned
decisions about alcohol and other drugs in their lifestyle.Life
Education is about teaching children respect for others, self respect,
self esteem and a recognition of their uniqueness as a child.Life
Education has a 30 year history in Australia and is now active in 12 overseas
countries.We save children from
dying.The movement was the brainchild
of the late Rev. Ted Noffs of Wayside Chapel fame.Ted,
active in the heart of Kings Cross was on record of saying:I
am sick of burying dead kidsHe
had witnessed so many times the tragic loss of young lives through drugs.
What are we
doing about Life Education?Well,
there is this range of mountains in New Guinea called the Finisterre.The
latin scholars amongst you would know that the translation of that is End
of the World.Well,
my daughter Emma. Her partner, Damian Sharrock, our mutual friend who walked
Kokoda with us in 2008, Gary Hearle from WA, are walking the Finisterre
Range and Shaggy Ridge to raise money for Life Education.For
the military historians amongst you,the
Finisterre Range embraces Shaggy Ridge, the site of a very significant
action by the 7th Division AIF to dislodge the Japanese from
New Guinea.For as much as Kokoda
and Milne Bay stopped the Japanese from reaching the Australian mainland
in 1942, Shaggy Ridge in 1943 was the first step in their dislodgement.We
will remember them.Should you wish
to assist Life Education Tasmania, please visit www.gofundraise.com.au/trek2010
and give generously.
I had two pieces
of news yesterday (2 May).Firstly,
the news that the Federal Government had rejected the recommendations of
the Henry Report on wine tax, and rightly so.Secondly,
my youngest daughter, Lisa, based in Kalgoorlie, has taken a new job flogging
Jack Daniels!There you have it!The
daughter of a wine producer bootlegging alcopops, and I know she will be
good at it.Right now I am changing
my will, leaving everything to my eldest, and unmarried, daughter Emma
and the two goats, Gary and Fred.
7 June 2011. What happened to a year? Well, after we finished pruning in 2010, Emma and I went back to New Guinea with Frank Taylor's mob, Kokoda Treks and Tours, and, with a small party of seven, we trekked Shaggy Ridg. Apart from just the experience of again walking in the footsteps of heroes, we also sought to raise monies for the reestablishment of Life Education here in Tasmnania. And we did that! Like Kokoda, trekking WWII battle sites is physical (how did they do it?), emotional, historical and cultural. As we were amongst the first 50 white people to visit Shaggy Ridge since the end of the war, much of what we saw was as it was left: a lot of military hardware, guns, munitions, helmets, barbed wire and even human remains. One example of the Australian initiative was the finding of a bread oven at the southern end of the ridge. The story behind it was the desire of the troops to have fresh bread. A 44-gallon drum was carried, rolled and lifted up onto the ridge and buried in clay at the southern posiiton previously occupied by the Japanese. We spent nine days trekking the ridge, Kankyrio Saddle, Crater Hill and walking the Mindjim River to Bogadjim and then in the back of a truck with no suspension to Madang.
The 2011 growing season was perhaps the greatest challenge we have faced at Providence. In fact, it was probably the most challenging year for the whole of the south east Australian viticultural region.Rain very earlky in the season brought our first attack by downy mildew. This occurred as the florets were first appearing and the end result was that we lost close to 50 percent of our flowers, hence, 50 percent of our grape crop! What followed was persistent powdery mildew attacks, rain preventing an important botrytis spray at flowering, more downy mildew and more rain! But, it's an ill wind that blows nobody any good: With Summer virtually absent, the remaining crop that we managed to carry ripened fully - something that would not have occurred had the entire crop survived to that point.
Yesterday, our newly installed solar array was connected to the power grid. I am still to be convinced that the not insignificnt outlay will ever be recovered but I rest in the thought that we are trying to reduce power consumption. In addition, our beaut vegie garden is also supplementing living costs. Brenda is keen on doing something about the hot water as well but that will have to wait until our bank account recovers!
We are about to release our 2009 Miguet Reserve Pinot Noir. Not uncommon for Providence wines, this one is a slow starter with a big future. At a Duck Crawl held in Melbourne by mine hosts Roy Morfield and Ron Leslie (if you haven't done one of these then you must!), the 09 Pinot was voted the most popular wine out of the nine presented. I love these duck crawls: whilst they are an excellent marketing tool, the food and wine combintions are simply brilliant. Basically, for the uninitiated, a duck crawl consists of three restaurnts, up to nine duck dishes and nine Pinots - all in one lunchtime! The experience finishes at a wine bar (in this case, JWOW) where Ron and Roy swap hats and become the Australian Rose Alliance. Providence 08 rose was the feature and very much enjoyed (and sold!)